Cutter for:
- Hamlet "Little Sister" Hollowing shaft HCT700 (Replacement)
- HCT704 edge protector required with the cutter
- Can also be used with the Simon Hope 19mm deep hollowing shafts, straight and swan neck (HDHT and HDSN)
- HCT706 sharpening jig supports consistent sharpening of the cutter
- Edge protector allows for accurate depth control of cut
- Only sharpen with diamond file, do not sharpen by grinding
See the Youtube video for a demonstration of the Hamlet "Little Sister" hollowing system
Deep Hollowing Tool Operating Instructions
The main thing with this tool is learning how to set it up. Once correctly set up there is little more to learn. It works so easily.
The top ring or cap needs to expose very little gap between the edge and the cutter. Very little indeed. I find that one millimetre is usually sufficient for a very large cut, for more control half of this is plenty, in difficult situations a quarter of a millimetre is open enough.
Looking at the tool with the handle pointing at the floor the gap should centre around the 11 o'clock point.
For most cuts the cutter should be in line with the shaft or even slightly to the right so that the point of cut is in line with the shaft. When work is concentrated on the wall or under a shoulder the cap needs to be swung to expose a side cut or the ring needs to be swung to bring the cut around to 8 o'clock but other wise stick to 11 o'clock.
In use there are two ways of approaching the wood for most cuts the cap can be brought into contact with the wood first and the tool rolled so that the cutting edge is gently exposed to the wood to cut on the line of centre height, this way if the cut catches, the tool is rolled into a safe position. For larger cuts once more confidence is developed the cutter can be used like a conventional ring tool, the bevel being used to support the cut instead of the cap.
In fibrous woods there is a tendency for the cutter to appear to clog with shavings, this usually looks worse than it actually is. If the tool is represented to the wood in the correct attitude the cut will proceed as normal, the shavings that jam the hole are replaced with others and when the cut is complete the ring looks jammed again. If the cutter is presented to the wood at slightly the wrong angle, or height then it does not cut and the shavings in the hole can appear to be the cause. Continue to present the cutter, seeking the best angle until the cut proceeds as it should.
With some of the most fibrous woods it is necessary to keep the cutter really sharp. This should be done with a white stone or fine diamond file, taking great care to stay with the bevel. If jamming becomes a real problem reduce the size of the gap and practice your angle of presentation until the problem diminishes.
Once you have mastered the tool you will understand how these introductory problems are associated with the set and use of the tool, not with the design. Many top hollow turners use this tool on many different types of continental origins of woods. Remember, if it's not working try a different setting, the set is the key to using this tool
SHARPENING
SHARPENING
Take a diamond or ceramic whetstone and in a circular movement hone around the cutting edge, a few strokes is enough. DO NOT hone across the cutting edge and DO NOT attempt to sharpen the inside.
Do not attempt to sharpen the tool by grinding